Chart for drafting ladiesj and children s garments



(No Model.) I

M. A. START.

CHART FOR DRAPTING LADIES AND GHILDRBNS GARMENTLS. 10.251,963. PatentedJam-3,1882.

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rUNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. i

. l MAY Leraar, on CHEROKEE, Iowa,V

CHART FOR DRAFTiNe. L ;Aoli-:sJ AND eHlLiJRiaris'eARNiizti'rs'.`

`SPECIIIFICA'EIOII' formingpart of Letters Patent` No..`251,963, datedJanuary, 1882.

x Application filed Angust20,188l. (No model.)

` To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MAY A. START, of Cherokee, in the county oflCherokee and State of i Iowa, have invented an Improved Set of DressCharts, of which the following is a specification. y i

The object of my invention `is to facilitate the drafting and cuttingand improve the forms and the iitting of ladies7 and childrens`garments.-

Heretofore three or more charts of various forms have been' used;` butmy invention is nevertheless novel and advantageous.`

It consists in forming a completevset of charts in threepieces adaptedto be unitarily used, as hereinafter fully 'set forth.

Figure 1 of mydrawings represents chart i No. 1 of `myset-twenty-twoinches long and u fourteen` wide at its upper portion. It has a concaveand curved edge at its front and up- 1 per corner to produce the formrequired to itto the neck ot' the person. 'au are correspending andparallel lines of perforations, to

garments for adults or large persons.

be used in marking out the patterns for high or'lownecked childrensdresses. b b are correspondin g lines of perforations below the lines a,tobe used -lfor drafting high 'or low necked 0n the front andV straightedge, extending downward fro'mthe lines of perforations b, is aninch-measure, printed or otherwise permanently xed. Along the top andconvex edge is a shoulderscale. A B C are correspondingscales and linesof perforations, extending diagonally1` and in nearly parallel positionrelative to each other 'downward and` rearward from the front and upperportion of the chart.` d d is a childs arm-size,.for1ned of a curvedline of slots and perforations. ec is a corresponding arm-sizeforladults.. Both of lthese arm-sizes are adapted for drafting thatportion of the front of a dress Y to which the sleeve is to be attached.f f and g g are arm-sizes adaptedfor shapin g that porfront portionsrearwardtoward the bottom of tion of the back of a dress to which `thesleeve is joined. D is a scale, extendingalong the straight'and loweredge ofthe chart from'the the concaverear side of the chart.

Fig. 2 represents my No.2 chart ordartpiece, adapted to be used,incombination with the chart No. 1, in shaping the front and-back andskirt ot' dress. E is a scale .on its front and straight edge` and`lower portion. `(i is a scale on the upper end of the convex portion ofthe rear edge. h h. h are parallel slots at the upper end of the scaleG. c' i t" are corresponding slots on the frontedg'e, in parallelposition with the slots h. lo k'represent a series of perforations inthe front and lower portion, formed in a straight lineparallel with thescale E. l l are perfo-rations in rear` ofthe top portion of -the lineof perforations 7c. on m are perforations in line with the perforationsZ, at some distance below, and, together with the perforations'l, forman inclined line relative to the straight line of perforations 7c. u nrepresent a line of perforations in the pointed top end.

Fig. 3 represents the No. 3 chart of my completeset, and is shapedlikean upper sleeve. It has a line of periorations, o o,.extcnding atright angles relative to the elbow-point. P is A an arm-size, composedof a curved line of slots and perforations adapted for shaping the upperend of theunder sleeve. Anr, r,`and r are lines of perforations that'converge i'romth'e upper end of the sleeve or chartdownward toward Vthe center. '8,8, and s are lines of perforations that converge from thelower t end upward toward the central portion of the chart.

In the .practical use of my set of charts thus formed of paper-board, or`any other suitable material, it is necessary torst obtain the size of aperson for whom a garment is to be drafted and cut by actualmeasurement, as follows:

For cutting a waist; `rst, around the bust immediately under the arms;second, around the waist; third, from most prominent bonein the back ofthe neck to bottom of waist; fourth,

from the most prominent bone in front of neck to the bottom ,of thewaist. y g

For cutting a skirt: tirst,around the waist; second, around the hips;third, thefdesired length of the skirt.

, For a sleeve: `rst, under theIA armto they IOO neck I form the neck bymeans of the sccond row ofpert'orations, b,- for a high neck, the first,or highest row. If the bust measure, for eX- ample, is thirty-sixinches, I mark the point on the cloth indicated by the ligures 36 in theshoulder-scale. I neXt'ma-rk the point 36 in the sca-le A to obtainthelocation of the under arm-seam. I then adjust the chart and lay thefront arm-size e e on the mark made at 36 on the shoulder-scale, andalso on the mark made at 36 on the scale A,in such a manner that theends of the arm-size will extend equal distances and in oppositedirections from each one kof the two dots or marks, and draw a curvedAfing the straight edge even with the goods.

Marking the size of darton the waist-line,

j put the linethat is drawn crosswise of the dartpiece and over with thewaist-line; mark the size of dart on Vbottom ot' waist; then line itAfrom bottoln- ,of waist to bust-dot and from the bottom of waist to thedot below the waist;

form the back dart the same, excepting slanty ing it in a little,drawing a straight line down to waist from the dot under the arm; markthe A under arm-dart half-way between the'back dart and. the linejnstmadeunder the arm. I make the under arm-dart two-thirds as large as thefront darts; mark it the same size at the top as at the bottom; allowthe width ofthe dart on the under arln-seamvand a seam besides. y

I mark out or drattthe skirt of a basque the saine as for a skirt.-

To cut the-back ot' a waist I lay the chart N o. l lengthwise upon thegoods; observe the perforations a and b for high or low neck; followdown the scale B (third line of figures from top of the chart) until Icome to the bust-` measure 36, and there mark the shoulder-` pont. ThenI make a mark at 36 for thel un- I der arm-seam; mark the shoulder byputting it opposite from thefront; then take the back arm-size,.g g, layit on the shoulder-dot and under arm-dot; leave both ends of the armsizethe same distance from each dot. Imeas` ure the length of waistwithinch-measure and draw a straight line from waist-line. I lay the chartthree inches from the neck and make one- Iinch taper; put the bottom of,the chart even with the line just made and the Waist-line; follow thelast row of figures on the bottom of the chart (scale D) until I come tothe waist measure, mark, or number; put the straight edgev 'of the charteven with the dot under thearm and waist measure and mark.

YTo vget the shoulder form, have the fseam one-third from neck andtwo-thirds from point ofshoulder, one-third from back seam,.andtwothirds from under arm-seam. To have-the seam go to arm-size one-thirdfrom the top under arm-seam and twothirds from point of shoulder,one-thirdv from back seam, and twothirds from the under arm, form fonasack onehalf between the under arm and back seam. I mark it with theback arm form, allowing for seams.

To cut the upper half of sleeve I lay the sleeve-chart (No, 3) so as tohave the. front side straight with the goods; take the size ot' thesleeve and mark in the perforation both at the top and bottom of thechart; lay the front side ot' the chart even with'the front dots;measure the length of the sleeve with the inch-measure on the inside ofthe sleeve leave the same .distance at the top as at the bottom; layAthe back of the sleeve-chart on the dots, leaving the same distance atthe top as bottom; lay the top of charts even with the dots; leave thesame distance at each side of chart.

To cut the under side`ot` sleeve I lay the chart the same as the top,except mark the inside row of perforations at top, bottom, and theelbow; allow for seam. To cut the front gore of skirt I take thevdart-piece, (chart No. 2,) and lay the broad end even with the goods;followthe ligures until I come to the waist-measure; take the measure ofthe hips; put it even with the waist-line; keep the broad endcrosswise'of the goods; mark IOO ldown to the bottom of the dart-piece;take the straight side and. mark down? the bottom of the skirt.; hollowout the front gore from one-fourth to one-half inch. To cut the -sidegore put the perforation on the straight edge of the goods, keeping thebroad end crosswise ot' the goods; put the broad end on the line justmade, and follow the line of figures till I come to the bust-measure;take the hip-measure and lay it on the mark just made; keep the broadend crossw-ise of the goods and markdown to the bottom of theskirt;hollow from one-fourth to one-half inch; allow for seams,

and commence at the top to baste.

Well-shaped andgood-tting garments may be thus readily drafted by meansof my set of charts for young and old, large and small, perspons, byiirstobtaining the several measures, as before stated, and then applyingthem vas statedin the example given.

I claim as my invention- 1. In a set of dress-charts, the part No.1,having lines ofperforations a b d e, scalesA,

tially as shownv and described, for the purposes specified.

2. In a set of dress-charts, the part No.2,

having scales E and G, parallel slots h ,andv t,

and lines of pert'orations la Z m n, substantiallyas shown anddescribed, for the purposes specied.

3.' Ina set of dress-charts, theipartlNorS,

IIO

having arm-size P and lines of `perfcrations o 0^ s, substantially asshown and described, for the purposes specied. i

4. The set 0f charts consisting of the form 5 No. 1, having lines ofperfor-ations a b d e, scales A,B, C, and D, and arm-size f and g, theform` No. 2, having scales E and G, parallel slots l1l and t', and linesof perforations k Z m n,

and Jthe form- No. 3, having an arm-size, P, and 'lines of perforationso i s, substantially Io as shown and described, to be unitarly used fordrafting garments, in the manner set forth.

- MISS MAY A. START.

Witnesses:

S. S. START, Mrs J. P-. HOWE.

